21 Dec 2019 A: Senegal Extravaganza!

"He prayeth well, who loveth well

Both man and bird and beast.

He prayeth best, who loveth best

All things both great and small;

For the dear God who loveth us,

He made and loveth all."

The Rime of the Ancient Mariner - Samuel Taylor Coleridge

“How would you like to see the Swallow-tailed Kite?” asked Karanta. A severely restrained reaction followed, considering how high this bird rated on my wish list: “I would dearly like to see the Swallow-tail” I answered. Pictures of the African Swallow-tailed/Scissor-tailed Kite in the various guide books have been imprinted on my mind. I have been dreaming about the day that we would meet up. There is something about a kite with streamer-like tail feathers that fires up the imagination. Would it have the clumsy, upright flight of a Long-tailed Widowbird; or would it dance through the air like a Racket-tailed Roller? It could even have a bug-like, rapid wing flight pattern; or will it soar through the sky like the larger kites? Guide books indicate that the Swallow-tail is locally common and widespread in the northern tropics of Africa. This intra-African migrant and bucket list tick had eluded me for the best part of a year.

African Swallow-tailed Kite; De Ndiaffate Wetlands

Leaving the hotel well before sunrise we headed to the De Ndiaffate wetlands, south-west of Kaolack. The owner of a dugout canoe rowed us to a nearby island where we hiked to a clump of trees on the horizon. In the pre-dawn light of a new day a Western Osprey skimmed over the water and Lesser Kestrels hawked insects over the savanna.

Less than thirty paces into the bush Karanta stopped dead in the path and pointed at nearby trees. I was astounded at the number of white flowers in full bloom, hanging from the branches around us. Then, in the dim light of dawn, some flowers moved and stretched their wings. We had found a roosting site of the Swallow-tailed Kite. I was looking at hundreds of birds…

African Swallow-tailed Kites; De Ndiaffate Wetlands

There is something about experiencing such moments that go way beyond birdwatching, or ticking birds off a list. I felt divinely favoured. I was awestruck to be in the presence of a Creator that created the magnificence and splendour that surrounded me. Standing in this avian cathedral I was struck silent by the near holiness of the moment. My heart overflowed with praise. Then slowly, like the murmuring of the wind over the veld, the Swallowtails started a soft chittering that sounded like the most beautiful hymn that I was ever privileged to hear.

African Swallow-tailed Kite, De Ndiaffate Wetlands

As the sun climbed further and further into the sky Karanta and myself realised that all the trees, even those in the far distance, were covered in Swallowtails. In fact, there were thousands of birds roosting in the Acacia scrub of this tiny area. At first glance they resembled terrestrial terns with long, pointed wings and deeply forked tails. Completing their early morning preening, some birds lifted off in tern-like flight and hovered overhead to inspect the intruders in their territory. This allowed me to admire the black bars on their carpal coverts, clearly distinguishing them from the extralimital American Swallow-tailed Kites who have been spotted in the Canary Islands and the Azores.

Black-headed Lapwing, De Ndiaffate Wetlands

The call of a nearby Double-spurred Francolin reminded us that it was time to leave this magnificent place. We still had a way to go before crossing the border into The Gambia. While driving back to the main road I managed to tick a few more year-birds. A group of White-rumped Seedeaters flew over the road and while we inspected them a Sudan Golden Sparrow joined their party. A little further we found a small flock of Chestnut-bellied Starlings and a pair of Western Red-billed Hornbills. The last find of the morning was a Little Green Bee-eater flycatching from a low perch. Senegal had produced six new birds for the year-list. This day had all the earmarks of another unforgettable experience!